Bukit ('Hill'), a lemon shaped peninsula at the southernmost extremity of the island, is a dry, rocky land. Oval-shaped and about eight kilometers from north to south, 17 kilometers from east to west, with a maximum elevation of 200 meters, Bukit offers limestone caves, temples perched on the edge of dizzying cliffs, stretches of immaculate isolated white-sand beaches, and a dramatic coastline pounded by Bali's most- challenging surf.

This 100-square-kilometer tableland of stunted bush and prickly pear cactus once lay at the bottom of the sea but now sits 100-200 meters above sea level, its sides in the south rising 100 meters straight up. Since the early 1970s, Bukit has been a popular destination for surfers, beachcombers, seekers of solitude, and budget travelers. It boasts some of Southeast Asia's best surfing beaches, and is considered among the top ten surfing spots in the world. Be prepared for huge breakers, which can dwarf those of Kuta and Sanur.

A bonus is the dramatic backdrop of sheer cliffs, which start at the northwest corner of Bukit and extend all the way around to just south of Nusa Dua. Go early in the morning to catch the best waves. The best time to surf is the dry season from April through October. Strong winds during the wet season make surfing impossible. It costs little or nothing to surf. At most spots, the surfer need only pay a 'board carrier'. This work provides employment to local youths; there's even an official Board Carrier Association.

Motorbike drivers will transport surfers and boards to the beach. Balangan This long, beautiful, white-sand surfing (left-hander) beach, accessible by four-wheel drive or motorbike, lies six-km northwest of Bongol. From Balangan's parking lot, it's a 10-minute walk to the beach-hard to find, as there's no sign. A cave temple also sits on the beach. Walk up to Lookout Point for a grand panorama over Bukit and the airport. Bingin A great place for surfing (hollow left-hander) and relaxing. From the main highway in Pecatu, take the dirt road to Bingin. This is the same pretty, shady country road you take to Padang Padang. Padang Padang From the parking lot, it's a short walk to the caves where you start surfing.

Really nice beach here too. Suluban Called Ulu by surfers, this is the most famous-and crowded-surfing spot on the island. Waves sometimes reach eight meters in height with straight-line swells. Purportedly one of the best left-handers in the world, for daredevils and goofy-footers only. A footpath, which starts 200 meters before Pura Uluwatu's parking lot, leads down to the beach, look for the sign Suluban Beach 2 km. Boys will offer to carry your surfboard and equipment for the 45-minute trip. Motorbikes will take you most of the way down, but this is a narrow, dangerous path so drive cautiously if you're on your own. From the covered motorcycle parking area at the end of the trail, climb down to the large sea cave at the bottom of the cliff, which opens to the ocean.

Nyang Nyang There are some other isolated and lovely beaches for surfing, sunbathing, and swimming to the southeast and east of Uluwatu. One such beach, with outstanding surf, is Nyang Nyang, the turn is about 2.5-km inland. Bukit has played an important role in Balinese mythology. Legend tells how the gods created Bali by taking a piece of land from Java, then shaping the island to make it hospitable to human beings. They created the high mountains of Batukaru in the west, Agung in the east, and Bukit in the south. In ancient times, Bukit was considered a dangerous area where great herds of wild 'banteng' and water buffalo roamed, driven south by population pressure. Bukit served as hunting grounds for pheasant, wild boar, and deer for the rajas of Denpasar and Mengwi. Cattle still graze there. So inhospitable is this land that criminals, political enemies, and debtors were once banished here.

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